Armani Eau Pour Homme (1984) Review
Now and again someone asks me the question "If you could create your own perfect fragrance what would it smell like? What notes would you put in it?".. or "Would you like to make your own fragrance one day?" The answer is that I don't know what my ideal fragrance notes would be but I have many fragrances in my collection that probably do a better job of smelling perfect to me than anything that I could imagine. As for the dream of having someone create a fragrance encapsulating everything I love best I can honestly say many perfumers seem to have done so already in scents such as this one... Armani Eau Pour Homme - first launched when I was a 7 year old boy sprinting (very slowly) up and down my garden path pretending to be Olympic Decathlon gold medallist Daley Thompson.
Armani's Eau Pour Homme was the brand's first male fragrance and was created by perfumer Roger Pellegrino. This citrus aromatic classic is a masterful example of the marriage of freshness with masculinity and also of delicacy with depth. The bold hesperidic (that's a fancy way of saying "citrusy") opening gives way to a spicy aromatic heart with a classic base of patchouli, woods and oakmoss (at least if you have an old bottle like mine from before the b**tards banned oakmoss!) These are the notes:
Top: Mandarin, Lemon, Bergamot, Petit Grain
Mid: Jasmine, Lavender, Coriander, Cinnamon, Clove
Base: Sandalwood, Cedar, Vetiver, Oakmoss, Patchouli
The fragrance should appeal to fans of Dior's Eau Sauvage (1966). However, Armani's offering seems to have a touch more testosterone added to the formula perhaps reflecting the powerhouse olfactory zeitgeist of the 80's as perhaps best represented by YSL's Kouros (1981) or Chanel's Antaeus (1981). Here we have a much fresher mediterranean twist on masculinity whose sparkling opening conjures up images of lemon groves and blue Italian skies.
The aromatic spices and lavender mean that the wearer may feel he has just emerged form the barbershop but the quality and refinement of this scent assure us that this is no mere drugstore cologne.
The base of classic woods is at once familiar and yet unique here in the way it mingles with the other notes. There are hints of warm spices and even of the juicy citrus fruits in this scent at every stage of its skin life. My old formula bottle lasts well and is moderate in projection. Not a beast by any means but entirely adequate and appropriate for a fragrance of this kind. If you are looking for a signature scent that has timeless elegance and will work as well with a crisp white shirt and tie or a polo shirt then include this on your shortlist. There's a slight retro feel for sure but not enough to feel dated in the way that many 80's masculines can. I have sampled the modern version many times in shops and it smells very close to me. I would not hesitate to buy it if my old version runs out.
I love this fragrance and would highly recommend it to fans of citrus aromatic fragrances with
with barbershop tendencies. Alternatives include the above mentioned Eau Sauvage, YSL's Pour Homme (1971) and Acqua di Parma's Colonia (1916) or Colonia Assoluta (2003).
Next time you see this sitting ignored next to Acqua di Gio in various versions or the Code range from Armani spare a moment to sniff what may just be the classiest fragrance in the Armani line up.